1) Saddle Pads (Numnahs)

• Contoured topline pads reduce whither pressure and prevent shifting.

• Feel for seams and binding edges next to the horse.

• Consider the materials used vs. your needs.

• Security / billet straps hold the pad in place.

• The pad’s front and rear edges need to be 1 - 1 1/2" longer than the saddle. The saddle should never sit on any seam or binding edge.

• If is very important to allow for any padding you intend to use when selecting the tree width!

2) Interface Pads & Shims

Some pads and shims enhance saddle fit and help with concussion, compression and the distribution of the rider’s weight. Shims in particular can lift the front or rear and fill in the center to help level the saddle and create an acceptable fit in a saddle that is just slightly off. The following are some choices:

• Skito Enterprises - Equalizer pads help ‘seat” the saddle; they also make shims.

• Supracor - great for heavier riders.

• Balance - a wonderful pad with an additional 1/4 ” front lift, they also make shims.

• Flair - another choice for heavier riders.

• Evac Pad - another choice for heavier riders.

3) Girths

The function of the girth is to stabilize the saddle. Making it as comfortable as possible for the horse is also critical for the horse’s health, safety, performance and general well being.

• Consider the materials used, shape, size and width of the girth vs. your needs.

• Avoid over tightening and always tighten gradually. At the end of a ride, loosen the girth and walk for a few minutes dismounted. This allows for the capillaries to refill gradually before you unsaddle.

• The best girth contour is wide over the sternum so that it distributes pressure effectively, yet still having enough room at the elbow area for free movement.

• Elastic in the center of the girth or on each end makes it easier for the horse to breathe and move freely.

• Soft edges are important so that no chaffing occurs.

• No buckles or straps should touch the horse.

• Foregirths are never a good idea. The need for a foregirth indicates that a change in saddle or riding techniques is needed.

4) Bits

Take the following into account when fitting a bit:

• Palate vault and shape.

• Gum shape and sensitivity.

• Tongue shape and thickness.

• Mouth length and width.

• Lip fullness.

• Prior injuries.

• The horse’s level of training and the rider’s experience.

Other important considerations:

• Leave at least 11/2 vertical fingers from the nose bone when fitting any noseband. Tight nosebands will produce overall body tension and thus hinder performance.

• If the horse needs to have its mouth tied shut, reconsider your equipment fit, riding techniques and the horse’s suitability to the current activity.

• Angled arms and double jointed snaffles are kinder bitting options. Many people also use sidepull / bitless bridles.

A) Ask Horses for Courses When Choosing Equipment

They are the best judge of what works for them! Always put yourself in the horse’s place, how would it feel if . . .??

B) Horse Messages, Feedback & Body Language

Be aware of the subtle and sometimes not so subtle messages our horses give us during grooming and tacking up. If you show your friend each piece of equipment before putting it on them, you will be able to gather valuable information on fit and comfort. Please note that sometimes it is the subsequent activity and not the equipment that they object to. Also notice body language, changes in facial expressions, breathing, shifting weight, muscle tension, etc. The following is a partial list of red flags (aka ‘shouting’): when the horse . . .

• is difficult to catch.

• moves away when equipment is introduced.

• pins its ears back.

• bites, snaps the air or grinds teeth.

• paws, kicks out or holds a high head and braced back.

• is hard to mount or drops its back when being mounted.

• is stiff or bucks under saddle.

• will not lift its back or is ‘barn sour’.

• can not or will not respond to your requests under saddle.

• spooks a lot.

The following is a list of green lights: when the horse . . .

• is easy to catch.

• stands quietly while grooming or tacking up.

• licks and chews when groomed or tacked up.

• has a calm demeanor and a soft eye.

• has relaxed muscles or a dropped head.

• stands quietly under saddle (an ill fitting saddle exerts more pressure standing still than when moving, thus any discomfort increases significantly when stationary).

• responds to cues under saddle and moves freely.

Note: Mounting from the ground over time is a repetitive stress that should be minimized. Using a mounting block whenever possible prevents damage to your horse’s back and ribs. Saddles also can become twisted through repeated ground mounting. Mounting from both sides will also help minimize repetitive stress to both horse and saddle.

Check List:

1) 1) Evenness of Sweat Patterns

Dry spots are not always a red flag. Sometimes they can indicate ventilation in an area due to a dramatic back movement pattern. Small areas of dryness where the horse lifts without pain may not be a problem. But they can also indicate too much pressure or not enough pressure. If there is pain in a dry area it is always a problem and should be investigated. Also if there is a large dry area in the center it indicates bridging, which requires a fitting change to remedy.

2) Ruffled Hair

Ruffled hair indicates that the saddle and or the pads are moving too much. Sometimes panel pitch that does not match the horse will also produce this result.

3) Bumps, Cysts & Swellings

These are all red flags that mean a fitting assessment is needed immediately! These occur usually from too much pressure or friction.

4) Shoe Wear

Always check the horse’s shoe wear. Sometimes poor shoe wear can be traced to improper saddle fit and sometimes the reverse is true. Also be aware that hock and stifle problems can manifest as a sore back. Check with a veterinarian or qualified equine body worker for expert advice.

5) Horse Health Maintenance

Periodic body work for your equine friend is a nice treat and it also can greatly improve your horse’s performance and quality of life. Proper regular dentistry is also important to maintain a happy, healthy companion.

Keeping dated records and photos of your horse’s topography, weight, etc. can come in handy in helping you assess saddle fit over time. Sometimes just a different pad or shim or a spot flocking is all that is needed to fine tune your fit. Doing topline tracings of A, B, C, D and photos every 2-3 months will make sure that you always are working with current information. Comparing the tracings and photos with the original and subsequent ones will give you a very clear picture of how your horse and your horse’s saddle fit needs are changing.

If your horse has grown out of your current saddle’s tree size, it may be possible to adjust the saddle. Some saddles can have the gullet plates widened or even have the entire tree replaced for a price that is less than a new saddle. Be a savvy consumer and ask the manufacturer if this is an option.

Record keeping will also give your saddler, fitter, body worker, farrier and veterinarian important information so they can help you and your horse enjoy many hours of happy riding.